Late September on Maakalla gives a calm but stunning beauty. Located 18 km off the western coast of Finland in Bothnian Bay, this isolated island is quite amazing. The island will be covered in snow when winter arrives, but now the sky reflects the passing summer, glinting on the roofs of the scattered wooden homes throughout its 20 hectares. Discovering Maakalla will allow you to view a world few have known and find the loneliness both haunting and fascinating.
The Mysterious Appeal of Maakalla
Among Maakalla’s defining qualities is its solitude. Modern comforts abound nowhere on the island: no stores, restaurants, vehicles, or roads. The evidence of the island’s rich past is seen as you stroll its gravel paths—the skulls of seals set on cabin doors. eventually rising from the sea, this island was created by glacier-isostatic uplift—a phenomenon wherein land formerly squeezed by Ice Age glaciers eventually recovers. Maakalla today is more than five meters above sea level, a far cry from the barely 9 mm it was in the 15th century when first found by seal hunters and fishermen.
A Historic Fishing Hub
In its heyday, Maakalla was a bustling hub for Baltic herring fishing. However, as farming and other industries grew in the late 19th and early 20th centuries, the number of fishermen spending extended periods on the island dwindled. Now, only a small fraction of the original 700 fishermen return each summer, bringing enough supplies to last their stay. From May to September, this ghost town reawakens, attracting day-trippers eager to witness the customs and traditions of a bygone era.
Autonomous Governance
Although part of Finland, Maakalla enjoys autonomous status. It is governed by a council of local fishermen elected every summer, a tradition dating back to 1771 when Finland was under Swedish rule. King Adolf Fredrik granted Maakalla special self-governance due to its remote nature. Despite Finland’s historical changes, including Russian control and eventual independence, Maakalla’s autonomous status remains intact. Interestingly, the island is not part of the European Union or NATO, even though Finland joined the EU in 1995 and applied for NATO membership after the 2022 Russian invasion of Ukraine.
A Life Cut Off in Winter
During the winter months, Maakalla is completely cut off from the mainland as the surrounding waters freeze over. Only about 20 people stay on the island during summer, with a few day-trippers visiting, but the island is deserted for the rest of the year. The fishermen abide by dual laws: on the island, they follow the council’s rules; on the mainland, they are EU and NATO-abiding citizens.
Ancestral Cabins
The cabins on Maakalla, known as Kalamaja, can only be inherited through ancestry and cannot be bought or sold. This tradition ensures that the island’s heritage is preserved. When a fisherman can no longer maintain their cabin, it is relinquished, and there is no way for the family to reclaim it.
Unique Features and Traditions
One of the island’s most striking features is the large moss-coated rock surrounded by smaller stones which the council gathers every summer. This tradition, held on the Sunday closest to St James’s Day (25 July), is crucial for maintaining the island’s governance. Another interesting feature is the tiny lighthouse, no taller than an average adult, which helps boats locate the island. Visitors are encouraged to add the first stone they step on to the lighthouse’s growing heap, continuing a unique local custom.
The Priest’s Cabin
Seeking cover from the breeze, you could come upon what used to be the house of the island priest. The island hired its priest historically, who also acted as the mayor. Only a mayor is chosen yearly today; the priest visits to launch the council ceremonial and officiate weddings at the chapel.
The Maakalla Museum
The newly built Maakalla Museum offers a window into the island’s history. The museum displays historical artifacts, black-and-white photos, and old maps, with text in Finnish. Stone slabs covering fishermen’s buckets once used to store Baltic herrings, provide insight into the island’s past. The details about seal hunting are particularly intriguing, highlighting an age-old practice believed to help regulate seal overpopulation.
The 1780-Built Church
Perhaps the island’s most iconic man-made feature is its 1780-built wooden church and bell tower. With a red facade and egg-yolk yellow doors and windows, the church’s ceiling is designed to resemble an inverted ship, complete with a wooden boat hanging at its center. Throughout the centuries, most fishermen on Maakalla married here, and the church has now become a popular destination for weddings.
The Importance of Autonomous Status
Maakalla’s autonomy is an essential component of its character, not only a historical oddity. Every major decision is made by the council, which is elected every summer, therefore preserving the island’s customs and guaranteeing the continuation of its particular way of life. Maakalla’s governance system enables Maakalla to keep its legacy and run apart from the more general political developments in Finland and Europe.
Experiencing Maakalla
Visiting Maakalla is like stepping back in time. The island’s isolation and unique governance offer a rare glimpse into a world largely untouched by modern conveniences. Walking its pathways, you’ll feel a sense of peace and solitude, interrupted only by the sound of crashing waves.
A Summer Retreat
During the summer, Maakalla transforms from a ghost town into a vibrant community. Fishermen return to their ancestral cabins, and day-trippers visit to learn about the island’s history and traditions. This seasonal rhythm is a testament to Maakalla’s enduring appeal and the resilience of its community.
A Place of Reflection
For those seeking solitude and a break from the hustle and bustle of modern life, Maakalla offers an ideal retreat. Its stark beauty and rich history provide a perfect backdrop for reflection and exploration. Whether you’re interested in history, nature, or simply looking for a unique travel experience, Maakalla has something to offer.
Conclusion:
Maakalla is a living monument to a distinctive way of life that has lasted for millennia, not only a lonely island. For anyone looking to venture off the usual route, its autonomous status, rich history, and breathtaking natural beauty make it an intriguing location. You will know why Maakalla is still a beloved hideaway for those who live there, even if just for a few months every year, as you meander around its paths and appreciate the calm surroundings. Thus, think about Maakalla if you are organizing your next trip trip. This is a spot where you might reconnect with history and the environment and separate from contemporary society. The island is a remarkable place since its remoteness and distinctive customs provide a trip unlike any other.
